Stories / Materials

Heavyweight Cotton Twill

270 gsm and 405 gsm, dyed as a finished garment.

Fibre
100% cotton
Weight
270 gsm and 405 gsm
Weave
3/1 twill
Made in
Portugal
Finish
Garment-dyed at 405 gsm
Heavyweight Cotton Twill
The story

A 3/1 twill: three warp yarns over one weft, which puts a visible diagonal on the face and makes the cloth harder-wearing than a plain weave at the same weight. We run it at 270 gsm and at 405 gsm, and the lighter of the two is made up as an overshirt. Both re Portuguese and coloured once the garment is finished, so the seams and edges take the dye slightly differently and the piece has a depth that piece-dyed cloth does not. Both weights are made up in Portugal. Cotton this dense takes a few washes to relax into itself.

Why choose it

For the overshirt that does most of the work, over almost anything.

01

Dyed after making

Colour goes on once the garment is stitched, which is where the depth and the slight unevenness come from.

02

3/1 twill

A workwear construction, so the diagonal face is durable as well as visible.

03

Two weights

270 gsm for the overshirt, 405 gsm for the heavier piece.

270 gsm and 405 gsm garment-dyed cotton twill
270 gsm and 405 gsm garment-dyed cotton twill
Transparent pricing

One piece, every euro

What one piece costs us, to the cent. Then where the rest of the price goes.

Philly Heavyweight Cotton OW01004-NVY
Philly Worker Jacket €159,00
View product
What you pay for

Philly Worker Jacket: €159 here. €229 average market price.

Average market price is what a comparable piece costs from a brand that sells through other people's shops: department stores and multi-brand retailers. That price has to carry the brand's margin and the shop's margin, stacked. Ours carries one.

Materials
€27,00
Making
€22,00
Trims
€2,00
Transport
€3,00
VAT (21%)
€27,60
Our margin
€77,40

Margin is not profit. It goes to getting the piece to your door: shipping, returns, the warehouse. Then to running No Label: the team, the stores, the fit sessions, the photography. What is left goes into next season's fabric. On sale pieces there is often nothing left at all, because overstock is money sitting in a warehouse and we would rather it moved than marked up.

Care

Wash at 30°C
on a gentle spin (400-700RPM)
Iron inside out
medium heat
Do not tumble dry
air dry only
Do not bleach
garment-dyed

Made from Heavyweight Cotton Twill